Review: MotoCentric Mototrek Sport Tail Bag, Tank Bag, and Side bags

I purchased a set of MotoCentric soft luggage for my 2012 GSX-R750 in August of 2012. I paid $62.99 for the tail bag, $69.29 for the magnetic tank bag, and $119.99 for the side bags from Motorcycle-Superstore.com (I had a 10% discount coupon).

I've since put a few thousand miles on the bike, mostly commuting to work and local day rides, but recently I used them for an overnight trip (250 miles each way) to John Day, Oregon.

Up to this point I've been used to hard luggage, using Givi side cases and top case on my 2007 Suzuki V-Strom 650. The MotoCentric set was my first use of soft luggage. I selected them based on reviews, features, and benefit vs. cost. Before I get into the details of my review, I'll summarize for those with short attention spans:

The MotoCentric Mototrek soft luggage system represents a solid value in soft luggage for sport bikes.

Review Details

The tank bag is used on my Gixxer all the time. Since my AGVSport leathers only have a single interior pocket, I put my garage door opener and cell phone in the tank bag. I also put spare gloves, a rag, and a few other miscellaneous items in it. The magnets are very secure and it's nearly impossible to lift the bag straight up. You have to peal it back from front to back to remove it from the bike -- that approach works easily.

The side bags take a half hour to install and adjust to the bike, but once that's done, they go on and off in a matter of minutes. The tail bag takes even less time to adjust, install and uninstall. Once mounted, both the side bags and tail bag are rock solid, even at high speed.

I've not loaded the bags to capacity yet. The tail bag and side bags have zipped expansion panels that make them wider and add to their capacity. On my recent overnight trip, I was able to carry a fair bit of clothes, toiletries, an iPad, and a few other items without needing to open up the expansion panels. The additional weight in the side bags didn't seem to affect how they hang on the bike at all. I was impressed.

The individual features and details of the MotoCentric bags show attention to detail. Although they are relatively inexpensive, they aren't cheap in terms of features or quality. The zippers work well, fit and finish exceeds my expectations, and the materials used are high quality.

This past weekend I rode up through the Cascades to the small town of Detroit, Oregon. It was raining the first quarter of the journey so I pulled over and put the waterproof covers over the tank bag, tail bag, and side bags. The cover for the tank bag resides in a small pouch on the forward tip of the bag. The cover is permanently attached at one point on the front, then wraps around the part of the bag closest to the rider's chest using elastic. There are no tie-downs or snaps, just elastic. While riding, the cover remained secure.

The covers for the side bags are similar to a shower cap, with an elastic band around the opening. They also feature a springy drawstring that can be cinched tight. The covers flap around in the wind when riding, but that cinch strap keeps them on the sidebags.

Unfortunately, the cover for the tail bag wasn't as secure. It uses only elastic, no cinch cord, and when riding back toward home it came off and now has to be replaced. It's possible I didn't have it pulled down all the way around the tail bag, but I'm usually pretty meticulous about checking those kind of things. A cinch cord on the tail bag cover, like the one used on the side bag covers, wouldn't cost the manufacturer much and would provide a more secure fit.

Other than losing the tail bag waterproof cover, I have no complains about the MotoCentric soft bag products. I view them as a good value, worth more in features and quality than their cost.

Review: Shinko 011 Verge sport bike tires

After purchasing a front and rear Shinko 011 'Verge' tire for my 2012 Suzuki GSX-R750, I've since put 800 miles on them and absolutely love them.

I paid $221 for the set from Motorcycle-Superstore.com, using a 10% coupon from a previous purchase and free shipping. I paid my local motorcycle shop, Yamaha Sports Plaza in Fairview, Oregon, $100 in labor to remove the factory Bridgestones and put on the Shinko's.

The reviews state that the 011's are a high mileage tire and I hope to get 8,000 miles from the rear, more from the front. I'll post again when the tires get within 80% of their tread life, so stay tuned.

Meanwhile, the Shinko's provide excellent grip with a completely neutral feel. When riding, I'm unaware of the tire, I simply ride as modestly or as assertively as I wish. They present no wobbles or vibration at any speed (I've had them up to 130 mph). Keep in mind these are not Z-rated tires, so it's not a good idea to take them over 150 mph. I've ridden on moderately damp pavement and they performed very well.

My chicken strips are only 1/4" wide at this point. Keep in mind I'm new to sport bike riding and only have 4,000 miles under my belt on my GSX-R. On every turn, these Shinkos have inspired confidence to this relatively newbie rider (as of this riding I've ridden 60,000 miles total, most of it on my 2007 Suzuki V-Strom 650).

I'm a huge fan of the Shinko brand of tires, feeling they are an outstanding value. They provide a lot of tire for relatively little money. The 011 Verge make a great tire for sport bikes, and unless they wear out after just a few thousand miles, I anticipate mounting them on my GSX-R750 for the foreseeable future.

Eastern Oregon Bliss on a GSX-R750

Some rides are utilitarian and have the charm of lukewarm tapwater. Others are sublime extensions of oneself that shall remain in our memories until the day we die, and perhaps beyond.

This past weekend was such an experience.

My goal was to take my 2012 Suzuki GSX-R750 on an overnight trip of at least 250 miles each way to see if I can physically handle that kind of mileage on a sport bike, as well as test out my luggage and its ability to carry what I needed. The fact that I would be traveling on some of the best roads Oregon has to offer was incidental.

My route took me over Mt. Hood, down to the Deschutes River rafting town of Maupin, through the hamlets of Shaniko and Antelope, along magical highway 218 to Fossil, through the cowboy town of Spray and along the John Day river to the destination town of the same name. It was windy and the pass at Government Camp would be a bit chilly so I started off with my yellow Nelson-Rigg rain jacket on over my AGVSport leathers for extra warmth. When I reached the lone gas station in Maupin to fill up, I was able to shed that outer layer.

The absence of premium 92 octane unleaded is a concern when riding in rural areas. My Gixxer averages 43 mpg when I ride it, and with its 4.5 gallon tank, I have an effective range of about 180 miles before I'm running on vapors. In Maupin, I not only filled my gas tank, but I filled up a 30 oz. fuel bottle that I kept in my tail bag just in case. As the big-bellied station attendant said, "That will save you a 15 mile walk!" Fortunately, it was never needed on this trip.

I left Maupin for Shaniko via Bakeoven Road, a route I highly recommend to any rider, especially those on sport bikes. The first few miles out of the Deschutes River canyon are technical and require top attention. The curves are great but gravel is common and the stakes are high if you leave the pavement. But, through adversity we grow, and each successful run over roads like that makes you a better rider.

East of Antelope highway 218 shines. The road is in fantastic shape, there are great sight lines and very few blind corners, traffic and law enforcement is nearly non-existent, and the weather was perfect. What's not to love? I really got sideways and the chicken strips on my Shinko 011 Verge tires are now down to 1/4" wide.

By the time I got to Fossil I was ready for lunch. Unfortunately, the Big Timber restaurant was closed -- either for the day or permanently, I'm not sure -- and the only other place to eat was crowded with pirates (cruiser folk), so I continued onward. I stopped in Spray and ate a BLT in the back of the small market and gas station combo. From the looks of their few, sparse shelves, first impressions would indicate they're about to go out of business. Not all first impressions are accurate, however. The two gray-haired gals working the joint rustled up a BLT for me, and 20 minutes later I was back on the road.

From Maupin east, the nearest source of 92 octane unleaded is Dayville on highway 26. It took 3.4 gallons to cover the approximately 145 miles, so the range between fill-ups was adequate. Another hour down the road and I was pulling into the Best Western John Day Inn and unloading my gear into my room.

Things got even better the next day. I left John Day at 8 AM and had the roads to myself. After getting warmed up on the highway 26 leg to the junction with highway 19, I ramped up my pace and really got sideways. Other than a brief snack break in Spray, I maintained a brisk and spirited pace all the way to Maupin. For those who haven't explored the byways of rural Eastern Oregon, I highly recommend taking the time to do so. The topography and rivers have to be seen to be believed.

I fueled up once again in Maupin, this time only requiring 2.3 gallons -- odd -- and went home through Wamic, past Rock Creek Reservoir, and then back over Government Camp and into Sandy and home.

My cheeks are still sore from grinning so much.

But back to the original goal of testing the trip-worthiness of the GSX-R, yes, it's possible. Riding attire is important, and would probably be better served with an Aerostich Roadcrafter or Transit suit rather than racing leathers. Also, luggage space is reduced but with judicious selection of only things that matter, that's not much of a challenge. Fuel capacity is also an issue, but with the what-if inclusion of extra fuel via my 30 oz. bottle and careful route planning, that also isn't much of an issue. Riding a sport bike is a much more physical endeavor so fatigue can be somewhat of an issue. Ironically, my butt hurts more when I ride my V-Strom, but my neck and knees hurt a bit more on the Gixxer. It's a trade off, and frequent rest stops mitigate that adequately.

Having said all that, the V-Strom is more capable for long trips but the Gixxer provides more smiles per mile.

Become a Student of the Art and Science of Motorcycling

We should all be students of the art of Good Riding because no matter how many miles we've put under our wheels, we always have more we can learn.

Here are a few things I've learned, both through formal instruction (Lee Parks Total Control, etc.), reading, and a lot of personal practice. Much of this advice is a repeat of what's already been said, but the fundamentals can't be overstated:

1. Look through the turn, both with your head and eyes. Even if your head maintains a fixed position, if your eyes are wandering you will still unconsciously point the bike in that direction -- giving you a 'weaving' turn.

2. Practice one technique at a time, in a controlled environment, before you move onto another technique. Spend a day doing nothing but concentrating on your head and eye position through corners. Exaggerate it. Make it become muscle memory. Then, on another day, focus on having relaxed hands (no 'death grip') and arms, etc.

3. Practice panic stops. Find a straight stretch of road or parking lot, get up to various speeds (starting slower then increasing in 10 mph increments) and then stopping as quickly as you're able without breaking the tires loose. Get good at this. Get good at knowing the traction limits of your tires. Get your body used to how the bike feels. Get good at applying increasing pressure on the brake controls rather than abruptly grabbing a handful of brake lever.

4. Practice dodging manuevers. When you see a patch of gravel or some other obstacle, your natural instinct is to look at it. On a motorcycle, 'target fixation' determines that what you look at is what you'll hit. So practice looking at the free space to the side of obstacles. Go for a ride, and at a very reasonable speed, spot objects or even shadows in the road, and then shooting for the safe space next to it instead of the thing itself. Get good at latching your eyes onto the safe path, not the dangerous object in your way.

5. If you find yourself tensing up in corners, you're probably doing something incorrectly. Do you have a death grip on the handlebars? Is your back killing you when you get home? Is the arc of your turns wavy? That's a sign you're probably looking around with your eyes or moving your head (or looking too closely in front of the bike and not far enough through the turn). Get an experienced rider to follow you and give you pointers if you're having a hard time figuring out where you're going wrong.

6. Above all, practice makes permanent. Identify correct technique, then practice that until it becomes muscle memory. If you practice incorrect technique, the fact that you're 'practicing' is actually counter-productive and just reinforces bad technique.

Every time I ride, no matter what the circumstance, road, bike, or destination, I am mentally aware of what I'm doing and how I'm doing it ... I'm practicing. Every ride is a practice session of one kind or another. If it isn't, my mind is elsewhere and I should be at home in front of the TV, not on a motorcycle.

Review: HJC RPHA-MAX Modular Helmet

Call me loyal, but every helmet I've worn has been made by HJC. I'm not saying they're the highest quality brand available, but I am saying they are probably the best value helmet brand you can buy.

My first helmet was an HJC SyMax, purchased at a local motorcycle dealership a day before my MSF Basic Rider's Course back in September, 2006. It was affordable, comfortable, and had a basic set of features that suited my riding needs.

After a few years, I upgraded to the HJC SyMax II, the updated model of the SyMax. It had increased features and was even more comfortable. That helmet has been with me for over 30,000 miles and has served me well.

Many people feel that once a helmet has been worn for three years, it's time to replace them. This is because the padding inside compresses and apparently moisture and exposure to the elements weakens the helmet's ability to protect your noggin in an involuntary get-off.

The logical replacement choice was the SyMax III. But there was another option available, and after reading a lot of reviews and analyzing the available features, I decided to get the HJC RPHA-Max.

It is a higher-end modular helmet, costing almost $150 more than the SyMax III, but it had a feature set and level of quality that I was looking for. I ride 10,000 miles a year, in all kinds of conditions, and I wanted a helmet that could meet my needs.

The RPHA-Max has a slightly more neutral shape and is sized a bit smaller than the SyMax series, so I ordered a medium instead of a small. That was a good call -- it fits my head well with no hot spots. The fit is a little different, however. The bottom of the helmet seems to be closer to my shoulders and this makes it slightly more difficult to swivel my head around. I still have a full turning radius, but it takes a bit more effort at the extremes. The chin bar also sits slightly closer to my mouth. What's weird about this helmet is that it has the same smell inside as a new car.

The chin skirt is a mixed blessing. It blocks noise and airflow, which is good on cold rides, but it blocks airflow, which is bad on warm rides. Once I seat the chin bar down into its locked position, I need to reach up with my finger tip and pull the chin skirt down off my chin into it's intended underneath position.

The visor has excellent horizontal peripheral visibility, but reduces the bottom portion of the vertical peripheral field of view. This means when I'm riding, I now have to tip my head down slightly to get a full view of my V-Strom's speedometer. I never had to do that with my SyMax or SyMax II. The upper quadrant of my vertical field of view is about the same.

The visor has outstanding clarity, but when I bring the built-in sun shade down, some distortion occurs. The main visor now has a central grab point (and lock!) instead of offset to the left. This means I can raise my visor with either hand. I was able to grab the visor lift point okay while wearing my Cortech Scarab winter gloves. Although I suspect the visor has several detents, in actual use it seems I can place the visor in any position I want and it will stay there.

Top ventilation on the RPHA-Max is outstanding. A simple flick of the switch on the top of the helmet brings immediate and noticeable airflow across the top of my head. I can notice it even when wearing a bandana or other head covering inside the helmet (which I usually do to absorb sweat). This will be a very handy feature during summer rides.

The helmet is lightweight, making the SyMax II feel heavy by comparison. It feels more snug around my cheeks and neck, and despite having a slightly different internal shape, it still fits my head comfortably. The noise level is pleasant (I wear earplugs). Overall, the helmet feels like more of a precision instrument than its predecessors.

I've not yet tried to remove the visor and I haven't worn it in the rain. One of my complaints of the SyMax series was the visor didn't form a tight seal against the brow of the helmet, and this allowed rain to run down the inside of the visor. The RPHA-Max appears to form a tight seal all the way around, and other reviews have stated it works better at keeping out the rain.

So far I'd say this helmet meets my expectations. I'll report more when I've put a few thousand miles on it.

UPDATE 4-17-2013

Removing the chin skirt is an easy process (just follow the simple directions). Doing so is good when you're riding in warm weather but perhaps not so good when riding in cold weather. On my commute in this morning, it was 34 degrees. Minus the chin skirt, a fair amount of cold air circulated across my face and made my eyes water for several minutes until they got used to it. I placed my glove under my chin to replicate the chin skirt I had removed the night before and the airflow stopped immediately.

I also added the included anti-fog Pinlock insert. It was easy to put into place (as you might imagine), didn't reduce clarity at all, and eliminated fogging entirely during my cold morning commute. Yay! No more rubbing shaving cream on the inside of my face shield!

Review: Hilleberg Nammatj 3 GT tent

My previous tent, a 3-person dome from Cabela's, was getting long in the tooth and lacked some features I wanted in a motorcycling tent. After doing a lot of research, and realizing that I'd wasted a lot of money buying cheap tents in the past, I decided to get the best tent I could and stop this repeat purchasing madness.

I chose the Nammatj 3 GT tunnel tent by Hilleberg.

The Nammatj is somewhat expensive, costing me $795 for the tent and $96 for the matching footprint. I purchased both online from BackcountryGear.com, a retailer based in Eugene, Oregon, and received the gear the very next day after ordering -- with free shipping! As my review will show, it's not about the cost, it's about getting more than you paid for. That's how I define value, and the Hilleberg delivers value in spades.

Unlike a free-standing dome tent, the Nammatj is a tunnel design that requires staking down. The downside to this is you can't pick up the tent and relocate it to fine-tune your spot. This is a minor issue, however, as you merely need to pick your spot a bit more carefully -- which is something I do anyway.

As you can see in the picture, the tent has two chambers, the sleeping quarters behind the yellow door and the storage 'mud room' just inside the door. There are vents fore and aft that provide a surprising amount of ventilation. Because they are sloped down, you can open them even in bad weather.

The matching footprint has dongles that let you tie it down at key points around its perimeter. This prevents the footprint from moving around once it is in place under the tent. The footprint packs up to the size of a hardback novel when folded, or a can of Fosters when rolled.

The tent itself can be set up in the rain without worrying about getting the inside wet. My previous dome tent had a mesh no-see-um material for the roof, so setting it up in the rain got the inside wet. It didn't become weatherproof until I attached the external rain fly. The Nammatj doesn't have a separate fly; the tent material itself forms the weather barrier. The inner tent (in yellow) is actually attached to the outer tent using a series of dongles and can be removed, making the outer tent just a shell. This is great versatility.

When using this tent, it becomes clear the designers at Hilleberg thought of everything. The attention to detail is impressive and the craftsmanship is superb. I expect this tent to last many years.

It took me 15 minutes to set up the tent for the first time, aided by watching a video on Hilleberg's web site ahead of time. Now that I have practiced, I could probably get the tent erected in under 10 minutes. Break-down takes even less time.

Everything goes into a stuff sack that easily fits on top of my waterproof duffel on the passenger seat of my Suzuki V-Strom. It's too large to fit into a side case or top case, however. The tent is too heavy for backpacking, but that's not why I bought it. If that was a requirement, I would have purchased the Nammatj 3, which is a single chamber tent minus the front 'mud room' chamber.

After spending a night in the Nammatj, I can say the purchase price is easily forgotten and the tent quickly becomes a joy to use. For motorcyclists looking to save money on motels, or those simply wishing to enjoy the outdoors, I heartily recommend Hilleberg tents in general, and the Nammatj 3 GT specifically.

V-Strom Mid-life Maintenance

I took my 2007 Suzuki V-Strom DL650 to the shop this week for some mid-life maintenance. It now has 53,000 miles and other than a faulty TPS sensor, it's never had a thing go wrong with it. Think about that for a second. That's the equivalent distance of riding twice around the planet with only a single electronic sensor going bad.

I'm having the coolant flushed and the radiator, hoses and clamps inspected. It's getting some new shoes, another pair of Metzeler Tourance tires. I prefer Shinko 705s, as they have quite a bit more grip, especially on wet pavement, and a bit more off-road traction. However, I can only get about 5,000 miles out of a rear Shinko; the Metzelers give me 10,000 miles, which will last me all season.

I'm also getting the battery replaced, not because of age but because I ran the current unit down by leaving my Garmin Zumo 220 GPS plugged in over night. It draws current even when powered off. Speaking of which, I'm having the shop re-route the GPS' power cord to a switched circuit. This will prevent power from going to the GPS when the ignition is off.

Finally, I'm having braided stainless steel brake lines installed, replacing the factor rubber hoses.